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High Elven 'Elnaith' Cavalry.

High Elf 'Elnaith' Cavalry conversion guide.

Introduction…

Like many LOTR gamers who play with Elven forces, I wanted to use cavalry in some of my games.  Inspired by the article in a back issue of the GW White Dwarf magazine, and also by looking at some of the other TLA members conversions, I set about converting some of my own High Elf models into ‘Elnaith’ or High Elven cavalry. 

However, I wanted to do something a little different to what had been done before.  The previous conversions had usually entailed the modeller using the riding legs of the plastic Riders of Rohan models.  After weeks of deliberation and looking at various Warhammer Fantasy Battle cavalry models to find something suitable, I finally decided upon using a High Elf spearman body on a WFB Silver Helm riders legs, with the rider model then mounted on a RoR/KoMT plastic horse. 

I had really wanted if possible to use some of the plastic WFB horses with barding, but after looking long and hard at them, I judged the horses a little too large, as they made the riders look small and puny.  The LOTR RoR/KoMT horses on the other hand are really just a shade on the small side for using metal figures, but in my opinion the models look far better on these horses than they did on the much larger WFB versions.  

So with the model components finally selected, and the tools ready and waiting, onto the conversion itself…

Stage 1...

Cut the High Elf spearman in half at the waist, clean up the area you have just cut with a file if necessary to help with adhesion on the joint.  Glue the body to the riders legs with Superglue, fill any gap that is left with either Milliput or Green stuff.

Assemble the horse and glue it to the cavalry base.  Leave the models to thoroughly dry before continuing any further.

Straighten out the tip of the spear to make it more like the shape of a lance, the metal is quite soft so you will be able to bend it into shape using a straight edge and your fingers.  File the flat edge of the spear away so that it is more rounded, and also the same with the ‘spur’ that is located just above the shaft on the spear, so that the metal is smooth and rounded.

Picture 1.

Stage 2...

Take some of your Green Stuff, rolling two small equal parts together mix thoroughly.   Roll out the Green Stuff into a thin flat ‘pancake’. 

Please note…I used some thick Plasticard to roll out my Green Stuff on, (but any smooth flat surface would do), lightly sprinkle with Talcum Powder or spread a thin smear of Petroleum Jelly onto the surface that you rolling out the Green Stuff on to prevent the putty from sticking.

Decide what shape you want the Barding on the horse to look like, and cut the Green Stuff into the appropriate size strips.  I cut one larger strip for the rear part of part of the Barding, which was to be added in one piece, and two smaller strips for the front sections of the Barding.  Carefully add the Green Stuff strips to the desired location on your horse, and blend into the desired position.  Smooth out any finger prints by gently rubbing the Green Stuff with water. Please see picture 2 for reference.

Picture 2.

Stage 3...

Cut another roughly triangular shape for the riders cloak out of your Green Stuff.  Again decide how long to want the cloak to be and cut this accordingly.  Make sure that you cut the top part of the cloak to approximately the same width as the section of cloak that is left on the model, place the Green Stuff cloak on top the remaining part of the metal cloak.  Using your sculpting tool and a little water, blend the new section of cloak up and around the hood, this will look better as there is no joint visible on the rear of the cloak.  Shape the cloak as you desire by adding folds into the fabric.  Using a little water on your fingers, smooth the Green Stuff to remove any fingerprints.  Please see picture 3 and 4 for reference.

Roll out another thin piece of Green Stuff.  Cut out a small triangular piece approx 15mm long, this if for the pennant on the Lance.   Using the sculpting tool flatten the end that is be attached onto the lance to about half the thickness of that of the pennant itself.  Fix the putty into place and wrap it around the shaft into the desired position.  Again smooth the Green Stuff with a little a water to remove any fingerprints.  Please see picture 3 for reference.

Picture 3 & 4.

Stage 4...

Take your Micro Drill or Pin Vice and drill a hole into the underside of the rider, superglue a length of brass rod, (or similar), approx two to three inches long into this hole.  Adding this length of rod serves two purposes. 

Firstly, you will be able paint your model more easily by holding the rod as opposed to having to hold the figure itself.

Secondly, when you have finished painting the rider, you will be able to snip the rod into a suitable length to allow you to pin the model to the horse, using the hole that is already located in the horses back.  Please see picture 5 for reference.

Picture 5.

Undercoat the miniature, I used Grey Acrylic Auto primer on my models, as I always do.   

When the horse and rider are fully dry, snip any excess length from the rod and superglue the rider into hole in the horses back. Or, paint the models separately and glue the rider onto the horse when you have fully painted both the rider and the mount.

Picture 6 & 7.

Stage 5...  

The Horse...

The horse was painted with Scorched Brown, then highlighted with bestial brown, the flesh was then washed with 50/50% mix of Chestnut ink and water.  The mane and tail were dry brushed with Bestial Brown, then another light over brush of Bestial Brown mixed in with some Bleached Bone was applied.  The tack and saddle were first painted with Bestial Brown, then highlighted with Bestial Brown and a small amount of Bleached Bone.

The Barding on the horse...

This was painted in a similar fashion to the skirts on the High Elf spearman, (see the High Elf painting guide), using a slightly different mix of colours, then an edging was added using Shinning Gold.

The Rider...

The rider is painted virtually the same as for the High Elf Spearman model, (see the High Elf painting guide), the only difference being that the skirts are painted in the same fashion as for the rest of the Elven Armour. I painted the Pennant on the spear in the same colour as the Barding on the horse

Basing the model...

Base the model in exactly the same manner as for the High Elf infantry model.

Apply a coat of Purity Seal varnish to protect your model.

Picture 8, 9 10.

I hope that you have enjoyed this conversion article, and that it inspires you to get your modelling putty and tools out and have a go.